I've lost my pen =(. That may be the greatest tragedy yet today. The safari ended alright. Still no lions, but I do have that spectacularly blurry shot I took yesterday. I said goodbye to Adrian and Darryl (our guide and chef). Adrian is obviously someone who likely connects with animals better than he does with people. Very quiet, a little shy, he comes to life only when spotting an animal or directly addressed. The fact that he's an orphan endeared him all the more to me. That and I've always felt an affinity for socially awkward people since I feel socially awkward myself. His dad was murdered when he was 13 (they never found out who did it) and his mum died of cancer a year ago. Death seems to be a common here.
I've checked into Funky Monkey's in Nelspruit instead of staying at Big 5 for another day. The thought of having to endure another grueling moth-filled ordeal was too much. The morning shower idea at Big 5 was only marginally better. I managed to kill a bug in the shower with my flipflop without screaming (whereas its okay for me to give in to my natural instincts in my own home, I am quite aware that a 23 y.o. grown woman should not be screaming like that in public). I got naked, only to notice a gigantic moth on the wall near the toilet. I got dressed quickly and tried the other bathroom. Only to also kill another bug (also without screaming), get naked, close the shower curtain, to find a moth on the inside of the curtain. At that point, I told myself I'd just have to wash my hair real fast and showered with the curtain open (thus giving the moth less of a chance to fly out at me). I was in such a terrified state that I fled that bathroom, leaving my shampoo in the shower and dropping my undies on the stone steps leading to the bungalow (which I was told about later by the cleaning lady who informed me that she thought I dropped "something" outside). I brushed my teeth outside the bungalow, using my spring water. I'm such a cowards. Regardless, here I am at Funky Monkey's, my only regret being that I saw a fabulously cute boy in the self-same moth-y bathroom as the shuttle pulled away. Likely, he is staying there alone. Perfect bonding time. But not even cute boys is enough to incite me to stay another night. A shame really since Anthea, the hostel owner's girlfriend is very nice.
I've checked into Nelspruit into my first hostel dorm. Being a newbie at this, I forgot to ask for a girls-only dorm. So I'm now in a room with 3 boys, one of whom - I'm sad to say, smells. Smelliness is reason enough to ask for a girl's dorm. Much less the safety factor and ease of changing. He did kill a mosquitoe on the wall for me though. After three tries. Drunkenness does not become one's aim. Funky Monkey's is okay, but the food is tremendously overpriced. There are more backpackers here, which is a thumbs up, and I don't even mind the lizards on the wall whose tails fall off if you get too close. However, more backpackers means the shyness sets in. Large groups of people do that to me. With smaller groups, I'm readily willing to chatter away, but now's as good as a time as any other to start breaking this Pavlovian response to new people. I rinsed my mouth with salt water to help the sores heal. Rinsing with salt water always makes me feel slightly ill.
Later.
The hostel is dominated by men and the bar sounds entirely too raucous for me. My mouth still hurts and its hard to eat or smile. I'm lying in bed alone in the dorm room. Reminiscent of camp. But what with just being on a safari, the last thing I want to do is engage in a game of beer pong. I think I'm just tired and cranky. If the dog outside doesn't stop barking, I'm going to shoot it.
Even Later.
Smelly Man came in and woke me up to profess his eternal love to me. Oh the wonder of beer goggles. Then I was thrown in the pool along with the hostel owner. I don't exactly have a lot of extra clothes to change into, considering that I only packed one set of pajamas, and they now smell like chlorine. Nothing like beer, pools, and wet girls to form new bonds though, however grouchy ones. Ellen, the manager here, is great. She lent me pajamas. And Smelly Man isn't so bad when he's so genuinely apologetic in the face of wrathful wet women.
Friday, September 17, 2004
Thursday, September 16, 2004
Kruger Park Day 2
6 AM: The sun rises very fast in AFrica. Blink and its light.
6:50 AM: Saw a male baboon from afar, sitting in a tree on the side of a mountain, looking at the sunrise. I've never seen anything so beautiful as that silhouette. It seems oddly human and prehistoric and m akes my life in the U.S. feel so trivial. We've lost touch and lost sight of the important things, the moments that don't cost a thing and are free for the grabbing if we're only willing to take the time. There are so many beautiful things around us that are free. Why do we place so much value on those with an artificially created pricetag? Society is the problem. We should all lead solitary existences like the male baboon.
8 AM: Today's Dorito flavor: Salsa BBQ
10:15 AM: Funny how every adjective I've heard used to describe animals is not just cliche, but true. Majestic elephants. Graceful giraffes. I don't know why I have such a hard time believing that things are just like in the movies (I just saw two waterbuck sparring), but I suppose it's because real life is never like the movies, but animals really -are- like Animal Planet. Seeing such simple things as elephants by the water make my life seem needlessly complicated. Everything stress-related in my life seems to be tied to money in some way. Money -is- the root of all evil.
1:15 PM: Baboons!
3:59 PM: Giraffes on the other side of the bank. Life somehow seems so simple here, watching them graze. Granted, I never have to worry about lions either. I like seeing animals fromm afar. It makes them more philosophical and contemplative somehow, and less biologically wild.
4:10 PM: Hippos! Hippos have no natural predators. Which of couurse makes it the animal I want ot be. Fat. Lazy. And all they do is sunbathe and sit in the water. Oh, and everyone fears you. Hippos are responsible for more human deaths in Africa than any other animal. I imagine it must be like being the U.S. president.
Lake Panic viewing area. Absolutely gorgeous and peaceful.
6:50 AM: Saw a male baboon from afar, sitting in a tree on the side of a mountain, looking at the sunrise. I've never seen anything so beautiful as that silhouette. It seems oddly human and prehistoric and m akes my life in the U.S. feel so trivial. We've lost touch and lost sight of the important things, the moments that don't cost a thing and are free for the grabbing if we're only willing to take the time. There are so many beautiful things around us that are free. Why do we place so much value on those with an artificially created pricetag? Society is the problem. We should all lead solitary existences like the male baboon.
8 AM: Today's Dorito flavor: Salsa BBQ
10:15 AM: Funny how every adjective I've heard used to describe animals is not just cliche, but true. Majestic elephants. Graceful giraffes. I don't know why I have such a hard time believing that things are just like in the movies (I just saw two waterbuck sparring), but I suppose it's because real life is never like the movies, but animals really -are- like Animal Planet. Seeing such simple things as elephants by the water make my life seem needlessly complicated. Everything stress-related in my life seems to be tied to money in some way. Money -is- the root of all evil.
1:15 PM: Baboons!
3:59 PM: Giraffes on the other side of the bank. Life somehow seems so simple here, watching them graze. Granted, I never have to worry about lions either. I like seeing animals fromm afar. It makes them more philosophical and contemplative somehow, and less biologically wild.
4:10 PM: Hippos! Hippos have no natural predators. Which of couurse makes it the animal I want ot be. Fat. Lazy. And all they do is sunbathe and sit in the water. Oh, and everyone fears you. Hippos are responsible for more human deaths in Africa than any other animal. I imagine it must be like being the U.S. president.
Lake Panic viewing area. Absolutely gorgeous and peaceful.
Wednesday, September 15, 2004
Kruger Park: Day 1
8 AM: Rhinos! White rhinos! It looks huge, but Adrian (our guide) says it's a small one.
8:10 AM: Zebras. A whole family of them crossed the street.
8:15 AM: This is like a moving version of Where's Waldo. I'm traveling in a safari vehicle but I'm surprised at the number of high-end vehicles cruising by considering how ill paved the roads are.
8:30 AM: Base Camp Pretoriuskop. New Dorito flavor - sweet chili pepper. Every time I leave the U.S., I'm always shocked at hohw prevalent smoking is.
9:43 AM: Seen lots of elephant poo, but no elephants. Am getting sleepy. Breeze from car is great. Park doesn't smell as bad as I thought. Smells normal. Nothing like a zoo.
10:06 AM: Young bull elephant standing in shade of tree. Elephant's life: eat. drink. stand in shade of tree. smell for receptive female elephants.
10:53 AM: Impala. The "Mcdonald's" of the bushveld due to the M on the bum and because they're everywhere.
11:18 AM: In college, when we chose animals to represent each other, my roommates gave me the giraffe. Because I'm long, lanky, and a little awkward. Well, giraffes apparently have no vocal cords and are mute. They communicate in ear wiggles and snorts. I, as most of my friends know, am most definitely not mute. Though I like to think I'm okay at the body language thing. Giraffe's tongues are 60 cm long and can twirl around branches to rip the leaves off. Kinda makes my tie-a-knot-in-the-cherry-stem trick lame.
11:26 AM: more impala.
12:10 PM: Lunch. This vervet monkey stole my sausage right from my hands. I briefly considered snatching it back from him since I'm considerably larger, but I was afraid it might attack. In a battle between a 10 pound monkey and a 120 pound human, sadly I think the monkey might emerge victorious.
1:30 PM: Another giraffe.
3:30 PM: warthogs.
5:00 PM: Saw a croc! Too far for photo.
6:00 PM: This is a very very blurry picture of lion. If you look really carefully you can see him in the bushes. He was roaring and I was too frozen in delicious fear to gather my wits about me enough to snap him. They must have evolutionarily evolved to roar at a specific frequency that makes your chest cavity vibrate. I felt a very primal fear deep inside me in response to the roar.
10:30 PM: I'm sleeping in a tent. The sleeping pad is a little stinky (smells like feet) and the entire tent is a bit mildewy, but I don't care because I had the most wonderful day. I like the savanna at night better. I like the forest and how it seems dark and safe, like the night is enveloping the world. I like how the sky is so dark and the stars are so bright. It makes me feel like this, the sounds of the mozambique nightjaw and the chirping bats, is what life is. Not fluorescent lights, cubicles, and deadlines. I haven't heard the lions roaring outside yet but I hear they do that. I'm sure it will thrill me to my toes with fear but also make me feel so so alive. This is what generations of man has heard for much longer than the buzzing of an alarm clock. This feels undeniably real and alive. I'm writing in my tent by flashlight, which feels oddly reminiscent of those sleepover days, except I'm about a decade older, I'm in a smelly tent, and I'm in the jungle instead of at a girlfriend's house. But the thrill of fear, life, and discovery remains the same.
Tuesday, September 14, 2004
From the Travelogue Journal.
9 AM
So, its my second day in Africa. And I started it off with a bag of "Doritos Italiano". Very healthy. Being the snack fiend that I am, whenever I travel, I like to try the local snacks. Doritos may not be local, nor is "Italiano", but "Doritos Italiano" most certainly seems to be. Or at the least, theyr'e not American. I'm the sole passenger on the Citybug shuttle right now. On my way to Nelspruit so I can be picked up by Big 5 BP's to Hazyview for my Kruger Park safari. Oh, and I have one thing to add to things I wish I'd brought. One of those cheesy and largely useless Nalgene splashguards. I remember balking at the 3 dollar pricetag. But at moments like this in the shuttle and during specific moments on the plane, I could've really used one.
The radio stations here play an odd mix of modern top 40 and 80's.
"When friends just can't be found, like a bridge over troubled water."
I sang the line softly to myself along with the radio as I looked out the window when it suddenly struck me that if this was being shot as a movie scene, it'd be a rather lonely and kinda pitiful moment. Which is odd because I don't particularly feel lonely or pitiful. And I usually revel in bouts of wallowing in self pity. If I was traveling with someone, we'd probably be yapping away instead of looking out the window and noticing things.
The traffic here is awful. I could really use a seatbelt.
4 PM
Arrived at Big 5 BP's. I'm beginning to question the wisdom of my switch away from Kruger Park BP's. My original reasoning was that big 5 received the official thumbs up from Let's Go South Africa. But - Kruger Park has internet access... Considering that I'm here alone currently and no one is around (not even the person who owns it), I'm thinking I could at the minimum use internet to email my dad. Or blog. I can't even find a listing of the tours they do with accompanying prices. I suppose I should read some of my thesis papers... I brought about 12 papers with me and have obviously done nothing with them as far. I have a vague feeling that meeting other backpackers is not going to happen. My "dorm" room is empty besides my things. Tomorrow's safari will likely be a solo venture as well. Me and the guide and the chef. Maybe the guide will be cute. For eye candy purposes. Though I guess I'm here to see the animals, not the cute boys. Though cute boys can be considered a kind of animal. God I'm so bored. I slept the entire Citybug ride. Again, I think I was the only backpacker on the shuttle with a bunch of locals. It was nice chatting with them. I feel like the Lone Ranger. The television here only has 4 channels, 2 of which are staticky.
7 PM
Have watched 2 episodes of Oprah. Nice to know that Oprah has penetrated even to South Africa. I tried to buy a phone card, but no phone cards are sold here. No phones are around either. And no internet. Most definitely picked the wrong hostel. Have left living room where I was sitting in the company of a wasp and the Young and the Restless to head to the dorm, where I now sit in the company of empty bunk beds and an owl hooting outside. I'm a bit afraid of using the bathroom in the dark. I'm convinced all sorts of creepy crawlies are in there. Damn you Let's Go guidebook for leading me astray! At least I get this thatched roof hut to myself.
9 PM
So, I thought I was a very "wilderness adventure" sort of girl. Never have I been so wrong. I went to use the bathroom before dinner, and it was completely filled with creepy crawlies. I kid you not. And I think I saw a roach. Are there roaches in South Africa? After peeing as quickly as I could while being terrified that a moth or roach would bust in on me (and you can't do anything but sit frozen in fear until you finish peeing since you can hardly jump up screaming mid-stream), I decided the usual nighttime shower could wait till morning. I think my irrational fear of moths, birds, and butterflies (or in fact, anything with fluttery wings) precludes me from being anything but a wannabe wilderness girl. Though, quite honestly, I'm much better at being "all out wilderness girl" (camping in the woods, not showering for days) than I am at being "halfway wilderness girl" where you stay in a hut but have an outdoors bathroom with lights that attract every nighttime bug for miles. Though, even without the light, I'm sure my pale naked body would equally attract bugs. With the weather being as hot as it's been, I hope to change that soon. Tomorrow is my safari. I really am going solo. I was right about the hostel - I'm the only guest. I'm thinking it's probably like this at Kruger Park BP's too since Anthea (the hostel owner's girlfriend) said it's been very slow in the month of September. It's just me, Anthea, and the architect building Anthea's house. Hrm, feels suspiciously like a horror flick. Alright, making final bathroom run for the night. Trying to decide whether taking contacts out BEFORE going is better since I won't see creeply crawlies, thus living in relative safety with only my imagination to horrify me, or being able to see so I can perceive any dangerous proximity between me and a bug. Anthea made dinner for us, and I naively asked whether this was traditional South African fare. She laughed and said, "No, it's just burritos."
The dorms at Big 5 BP's.
So, its my second day in Africa. And I started it off with a bag of "Doritos Italiano". Very healthy. Being the snack fiend that I am, whenever I travel, I like to try the local snacks. Doritos may not be local, nor is "Italiano", but "Doritos Italiano" most certainly seems to be. Or at the least, theyr'e not American. I'm the sole passenger on the Citybug shuttle right now. On my way to Nelspruit so I can be picked up by Big 5 BP's to Hazyview for my Kruger Park safari. Oh, and I have one thing to add to things I wish I'd brought. One of those cheesy and largely useless Nalgene splashguards. I remember balking at the 3 dollar pricetag. But at moments like this in the shuttle and during specific moments on the plane, I could've really used one.
The radio stations here play an odd mix of modern top 40 and 80's.
"When friends just can't be found, like a bridge over troubled water."
I sang the line softly to myself along with the radio as I looked out the window when it suddenly struck me that if this was being shot as a movie scene, it'd be a rather lonely and kinda pitiful moment. Which is odd because I don't particularly feel lonely or pitiful. And I usually revel in bouts of wallowing in self pity. If I was traveling with someone, we'd probably be yapping away instead of looking out the window and noticing things.
The traffic here is awful. I could really use a seatbelt.
4 PM
Arrived at Big 5 BP's. I'm beginning to question the wisdom of my switch away from Kruger Park BP's. My original reasoning was that big 5 received the official thumbs up from Let's Go South Africa. But - Kruger Park has internet access... Considering that I'm here alone currently and no one is around (not even the person who owns it), I'm thinking I could at the minimum use internet to email my dad. Or blog. I can't even find a listing of the tours they do with accompanying prices. I suppose I should read some of my thesis papers... I brought about 12 papers with me and have obviously done nothing with them as far. I have a vague feeling that meeting other backpackers is not going to happen. My "dorm" room is empty besides my things. Tomorrow's safari will likely be a solo venture as well. Me and the guide and the chef. Maybe the guide will be cute. For eye candy purposes. Though I guess I'm here to see the animals, not the cute boys. Though cute boys can be considered a kind of animal. God I'm so bored. I slept the entire Citybug ride. Again, I think I was the only backpacker on the shuttle with a bunch of locals. It was nice chatting with them. I feel like the Lone Ranger. The television here only has 4 channels, 2 of which are staticky.
7 PM
Have watched 2 episodes of Oprah. Nice to know that Oprah has penetrated even to South Africa. I tried to buy a phone card, but no phone cards are sold here. No phones are around either. And no internet. Most definitely picked the wrong hostel. Have left living room where I was sitting in the company of a wasp and the Young and the Restless to head to the dorm, where I now sit in the company of empty bunk beds and an owl hooting outside. I'm a bit afraid of using the bathroom in the dark. I'm convinced all sorts of creepy crawlies are in there. Damn you Let's Go guidebook for leading me astray! At least I get this thatched roof hut to myself.
9 PM
So, I thought I was a very "wilderness adventure" sort of girl. Never have I been so wrong. I went to use the bathroom before dinner, and it was completely filled with creepy crawlies. I kid you not. And I think I saw a roach. Are there roaches in South Africa? After peeing as quickly as I could while being terrified that a moth or roach would bust in on me (and you can't do anything but sit frozen in fear until you finish peeing since you can hardly jump up screaming mid-stream), I decided the usual nighttime shower could wait till morning. I think my irrational fear of moths, birds, and butterflies (or in fact, anything with fluttery wings) precludes me from being anything but a wannabe wilderness girl. Though, quite honestly, I'm much better at being "all out wilderness girl" (camping in the woods, not showering for days) than I am at being "halfway wilderness girl" where you stay in a hut but have an outdoors bathroom with lights that attract every nighttime bug for miles. Though, even without the light, I'm sure my pale naked body would equally attract bugs. With the weather being as hot as it's been, I hope to change that soon. Tomorrow is my safari. I really am going solo. I was right about the hostel - I'm the only guest. I'm thinking it's probably like this at Kruger Park BP's too since Anthea (the hostel owner's girlfriend) said it's been very slow in the month of September. It's just me, Anthea, and the architect building Anthea's house. Hrm, feels suspiciously like a horror flick. Alright, making final bathroom run for the night. Trying to decide whether taking contacts out BEFORE going is better since I won't see creeply crawlies, thus living in relative safety with only my imagination to horrify me, or being able to see so I can perceive any dangerous proximity between me and a bug. Anthea made dinner for us, and I naively asked whether this was traditional South African fare. She laughed and said, "No, it's just burritos."
The dorms at Big 5 BP's.
Monday, September 13, 2004
Girls' Guide to Traveling Africa.
The hostel has a nice atmosphere of welcoming but not too raucous. No one's particularly chatty, but I'm most comfortable dwelling in that awkward phase when strangers don't know each other. Perhaps because it's my natural state of being so I have a competitive advantage over those not accustomed to being awkward on a normal basis. I shine in such moments. When people are chatty or seem clique-y, I tend to shy away and shrivel a bit. I like my bathroom. The shower has a gabled glass ceiling so I feel like I'm showering outdoors. There's separate faucets for hot and cold water in my sink, just like the olden days.
Now that I'm in Africa, I'm realizing a few things:
My best buy so far is without a doubt my camp towel. It was one of my last purchases, and a purchase made reluctantly at that. Who wants to pay 20 bucks for a towel that will barely cover my ass? I bought it anyways, grumblingly. And it rocks. I've folded it up to use as a pillow on the plane. It was handy when I brushed my teeth and washed up at the airport, it dries super fast, takes up almost no space in my pack, and I lay it on top of my pillow to protect my face against the questionable pillow cases here.
What do I wish I had brought but didn't? My sneakers. Inspired by the go-light traveling phenomenon, I decided to avoid being a silly girl and packed only hiking shoes and flipflops (for the shower and other casual occasions). The hiking boots are too heavy for everyday wear and the streets are too dirty to wear flipflops. My saucony sneakers would have likely become my regular every-day-shoes unless I was going hiking. It would've been worth it to carry an extra pair of shoes in my opinion.
The one thing I'm glad I packed was my favorite jeans. Of course, I'm breaking every rule in the backpacker book (never bring jeans, don't bring 2 pairs of "sneakers"), but I've decided that these rules only apply in tropical areas. When it's only 60 degrees, jeans are a necessity, especially since they're sturdy, comfortable, and don't show dirt. Plus, I'd much rather horseback ride in jeans than in thin nylon pants. Everyone else wears jeans anyways. Another thing that I was recommended to NOT pack (but am glad I did) is a big vat of body moisturizer in addition to facial moisturizer. The air here is so dry my skin is almost cracking.
I also think my compression sack is worth its weight in gold.
Dead weight? I have yet to use my mosquitoe net or my bug spray or my water purification tablets.
Must figure out how to post pictures on my blog.
Now that I'm in Africa, I'm realizing a few things:
My best buy so far is without a doubt my camp towel. It was one of my last purchases, and a purchase made reluctantly at that. Who wants to pay 20 bucks for a towel that will barely cover my ass? I bought it anyways, grumblingly. And it rocks. I've folded it up to use as a pillow on the plane. It was handy when I brushed my teeth and washed up at the airport, it dries super fast, takes up almost no space in my pack, and I lay it on top of my pillow to protect my face against the questionable pillow cases here.
What do I wish I had brought but didn't? My sneakers. Inspired by the go-light traveling phenomenon, I decided to avoid being a silly girl and packed only hiking shoes and flipflops (for the shower and other casual occasions). The hiking boots are too heavy for everyday wear and the streets are too dirty to wear flipflops. My saucony sneakers would have likely become my regular every-day-shoes unless I was going hiking. It would've been worth it to carry an extra pair of shoes in my opinion.
The one thing I'm glad I packed was my favorite jeans. Of course, I'm breaking every rule in the backpacker book (never bring jeans, don't bring 2 pairs of "sneakers"), but I've decided that these rules only apply in tropical areas. When it's only 60 degrees, jeans are a necessity, especially since they're sturdy, comfortable, and don't show dirt. Plus, I'd much rather horseback ride in jeans than in thin nylon pants. Everyone else wears jeans anyways. Another thing that I was recommended to NOT pack (but am glad I did) is a big vat of body moisturizer in addition to facial moisturizer. The air here is so dry my skin is almost cracking.
I also think my compression sack is worth its weight in gold.
Dead weight? I have yet to use my mosquitoe net or my bug spray or my water purification tablets.
Must figure out how to post pictures on my blog.
London and Africa.
After a much needed nap, I'm feeling much better. Being here on my own hasn't really been that much different from being in Boston or New York on my own. My 10-hour layover in London was quite productive. Besides sitting in gum, I also saw Picadilly Circus (Statue of Eros), Big Ben, Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and Buckingham Palace. Buckingham Palace was disappointingly un-palace-y and disturbingly White-House-like. My favorite building was Parliament, and I'm looking forward to seeing the inside of Westminster Abbey on my return flight. All cities seem similar. It's only when you live there for an extended period of time that you get to know the nuances of its character.
I met a Brazilian woman at the airport who was staying at the same hostel as I am. She lit up a cigarette as soon as we got outside. Little did I realize at that moment that I was to see that same motion a million times over the course of the day as we decided to take on sightseeing in Pretoria together. Pretoria/Johannesburg is a little disappointing, but the other hostel'ees seem friendly, if not too chatty. There's a dog at the hostel that I can't help but keep petting, even despite its tendency for profligate drool.
The sheets at the hostel live up to their reputation. I've never been so thankful for lugging around my sleeping bag. I made my mom make me a sleeping bag liner too before I left. She sewed up a twin sheet into a little burrito-bag for her little pork chop (that's me), and then decided to wash it and dry it in the sun in the backyard. During today's nap, I climbed into it and caught the aroma of sunshine and home. I'm very much an out of sight, out of mind sort of girl which means that I get spates of homesickness interspersed with extreme adventure. I'm a little ashamed to admit that my parents did not even cross my mind at all since I left, until I slipped into my sleeping bag and smelled the sheets. Then homesickness rolled over me in waves. Or perhaps more accurately - parent-sickness since it's not really "home" that I missed, but my parents. I cried a little, scolded myself for being such a silly girl, and then slept like the dead. I'm not too surprised, as the same happened in Asia. Tons of fun and giggling and partying, until it came time for my weekly phone call home. I think it's best that I keep communication limited to email. That and, calling the U.S. from S. Africa chews up my phone cards like you wouldn't believe. I've already gone through 2 and I've been here for less than 24 hours.
Figures, now that it's time for bed, I'm wide awake. Damn jetlag. Tomorrow, I'm taking the Citybug out to Nelspruit, where I'll be picked up by my next hostel - Big 5 Backpackers. I made a last minute change away from Kruger Park Backpackers who I had reservations with originally. I don't remember why I originally chose Kruger Park BP, but I was re-reading my Let's Go guide and realized that Big 5 got the thumbs up from the researchers -and- its prices were cheaper. In fact, Kruger Park Backpackers wasn't even listed in the guide. How I even got information for it to make reservations is a mystery. The experience is probably quite similar and my last minute change is likely nothing but a slight case of nerves.
I'm very pleased with Pretoria Backpackers so far. It has a lovely backyard with a pond and candles, and I got a nice suite with my own bathroom in a stand-alone guest house for the price of a single room with a shared bathroom down the hall. I'm not sure how I lucked out, especially when I saw the Brazilian woman's room (we paid the same amount). I had my doubts about reserving a single room, but I've never been so thankful. When I'm this tired, the last thing I want to do is make chitchat with people in the room. They say that introverts are those who recharge when they're alone, and extroverts are those who get their energy from interacting with others. By that definition, I'm an introvert, though if you ask any of my friends, introvert is the last thing they'd call me.
Alright. My 2 dollars worth of internet time has run out (even with my 92 wpm typing speed). This is to all the people who I promised I'd write to reassure them that I'm alive and well. Though if I'm maimed, I'd be okay as long as they left my fingers intact. Can live without a leg, but can't live without the ability to write. Though I suppose I can be like that girl on TV who paints, writes, and types using a stick in her mouth.
Time right now: 8:46 PM. The 6 hour time delay means that I can never call home because by the time my parents get home from work, it's midnight here. That may be a good thing. Tomorrow is Kruger Park and my two-day safari. Cross your fingers for no lion-mauling.
I met a Brazilian woman at the airport who was staying at the same hostel as I am. She lit up a cigarette as soon as we got outside. Little did I realize at that moment that I was to see that same motion a million times over the course of the day as we decided to take on sightseeing in Pretoria together. Pretoria/Johannesburg is a little disappointing, but the other hostel'ees seem friendly, if not too chatty. There's a dog at the hostel that I can't help but keep petting, even despite its tendency for profligate drool.
The sheets at the hostel live up to their reputation. I've never been so thankful for lugging around my sleeping bag. I made my mom make me a sleeping bag liner too before I left. She sewed up a twin sheet into a little burrito-bag for her little pork chop (that's me), and then decided to wash it and dry it in the sun in the backyard. During today's nap, I climbed into it and caught the aroma of sunshine and home. I'm very much an out of sight, out of mind sort of girl which means that I get spates of homesickness interspersed with extreme adventure. I'm a little ashamed to admit that my parents did not even cross my mind at all since I left, until I slipped into my sleeping bag and smelled the sheets. Then homesickness rolled over me in waves. Or perhaps more accurately - parent-sickness since it's not really "home" that I missed, but my parents. I cried a little, scolded myself for being such a silly girl, and then slept like the dead. I'm not too surprised, as the same happened in Asia. Tons of fun and giggling and partying, until it came time for my weekly phone call home. I think it's best that I keep communication limited to email. That and, calling the U.S. from S. Africa chews up my phone cards like you wouldn't believe. I've already gone through 2 and I've been here for less than 24 hours.
Figures, now that it's time for bed, I'm wide awake. Damn jetlag. Tomorrow, I'm taking the Citybug out to Nelspruit, where I'll be picked up by my next hostel - Big 5 Backpackers. I made a last minute change away from Kruger Park Backpackers who I had reservations with originally. I don't remember why I originally chose Kruger Park BP, but I was re-reading my Let's Go guide and realized that Big 5 got the thumbs up from the researchers -and- its prices were cheaper. In fact, Kruger Park Backpackers wasn't even listed in the guide. How I even got information for it to make reservations is a mystery. The experience is probably quite similar and my last minute change is likely nothing but a slight case of nerves.
I'm very pleased with Pretoria Backpackers so far. It has a lovely backyard with a pond and candles, and I got a nice suite with my own bathroom in a stand-alone guest house for the price of a single room with a shared bathroom down the hall. I'm not sure how I lucked out, especially when I saw the Brazilian woman's room (we paid the same amount). I had my doubts about reserving a single room, but I've never been so thankful. When I'm this tired, the last thing I want to do is make chitchat with people in the room. They say that introverts are those who recharge when they're alone, and extroverts are those who get their energy from interacting with others. By that definition, I'm an introvert, though if you ask any of my friends, introvert is the last thing they'd call me.
Alright. My 2 dollars worth of internet time has run out (even with my 92 wpm typing speed). This is to all the people who I promised I'd write to reassure them that I'm alive and well. Though if I'm maimed, I'd be okay as long as they left my fingers intact. Can live without a leg, but can't live without the ability to write. Though I suppose I can be like that girl on TV who paints, writes, and types using a stick in her mouth.
Time right now: 8:46 PM. The 6 hour time delay means that I can never call home because by the time my parents get home from work, it's midnight here. That may be a good thing. Tomorrow is Kruger Park and my two-day safari. Cross your fingers for no lion-mauling.
...
So far, the first 24 hours of my "adventure" has been... well let's say, less than ideal.
It consisted of having serious sinus problems on the first leg of my trip to London (my ears hurt when we descended because they couldn't re-pressurize properly without clear sinuses). Then, in London, after managing to get through my entire life with zero incidents involving gum, I sit in it within 2 hours of arriving. It's still on my jeans. On the second leg of the trip, I got a bloody nose on the plane and was sitting next to the most unpleasant old man. Getting up to go to the bathroom twice within a 10 hour flight sounds quite reasonable to me, but apparently not so reasonable to the old man. The third time I got up, it was to puke in the airplane bathroom. I have a healthy suspicion that the doxycycline was what caused it as I forgot to take it with food. Upon my return though, the old man reiterated his thoughts on my window seat.
"I wasn't getting up to pee again you know. I was ill."
"So you say."
I should've vomited all over him instead. I'm now in South Africa and exhausted. Logistically, it's been a bit of a nightmare as I'm trying to schedule a pickup by the non-profit I work for before I take off sightseeing. Having only use of public phones is hard because I have to hang around like a hoodlum, waiting for them to call back. What I really want to do right now is sleep, but I promised this girl I'd go around Pretoria with her at 1 pm. It's nearing 11 am, I haven't heard back from the non-profit yet for a scheduled pickup time, and I am still unshowered.
I did manage though, to brush my teeth after puking. And the stewardesses nicely made an announcement asking the passengers to donate their unused toothbrushes and toothpastes for the summer camps I'm working for.
The funny thing is, I was quite nervous before coming here. On the car ride to the airport, I came close to crying a few times. Largely because my dad was giving me all these warnings, and with my overactive imagination - I was imagining all the possible worst case scenarios - which of course, all end in death or maiming. I felt incredibly sad, not for myself, but for my parents. In the past year or so, I've come to realize how much they really love me and how much they've invested in me, emotionally and financially. It would be tragic for them to lose me. I felt all choked up on their behalf, because obviously - if I was dead, I wouldn't be able to feel anything, even sadness. Once I got to the airport and they left though, I started to feel a bit more stable again.
I feel like I have to take care of myself. Not just for my sake, but also for my parents.
It consisted of having serious sinus problems on the first leg of my trip to London (my ears hurt when we descended because they couldn't re-pressurize properly without clear sinuses). Then, in London, after managing to get through my entire life with zero incidents involving gum, I sit in it within 2 hours of arriving. It's still on my jeans. On the second leg of the trip, I got a bloody nose on the plane and was sitting next to the most unpleasant old man. Getting up to go to the bathroom twice within a 10 hour flight sounds quite reasonable to me, but apparently not so reasonable to the old man. The third time I got up, it was to puke in the airplane bathroom. I have a healthy suspicion that the doxycycline was what caused it as I forgot to take it with food. Upon my return though, the old man reiterated his thoughts on my window seat.
"I wasn't getting up to pee again you know. I was ill."
"So you say."
I should've vomited all over him instead. I'm now in South Africa and exhausted. Logistically, it's been a bit of a nightmare as I'm trying to schedule a pickup by the non-profit I work for before I take off sightseeing. Having only use of public phones is hard because I have to hang around like a hoodlum, waiting for them to call back. What I really want to do right now is sleep, but I promised this girl I'd go around Pretoria with her at 1 pm. It's nearing 11 am, I haven't heard back from the non-profit yet for a scheduled pickup time, and I am still unshowered.
I did manage though, to brush my teeth after puking. And the stewardesses nicely made an announcement asking the passengers to donate their unused toothbrushes and toothpastes for the summer camps I'm working for.
The funny thing is, I was quite nervous before coming here. On the car ride to the airport, I came close to crying a few times. Largely because my dad was giving me all these warnings, and with my overactive imagination - I was imagining all the possible worst case scenarios - which of course, all end in death or maiming. I felt incredibly sad, not for myself, but for my parents. In the past year or so, I've come to realize how much they really love me and how much they've invested in me, emotionally and financially. It would be tragic for them to lose me. I felt all choked up on their behalf, because obviously - if I was dead, I wouldn't be able to feel anything, even sadness. Once I got to the airport and they left though, I started to feel a bit more stable again.
I feel like I have to take care of myself. Not just for my sake, but also for my parents.
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